Ralph Lauren's 'Catwalk' is a comprehensive and captivating exploration of the iconic American fashion designer's journey, spanning over five decades of innovation and influence in women's design. This 632-page book, published by Thames & Hudson, is a testament to Lauren's enduring legacy and his unique approach to fashion storytelling. The author, Bridget Foley, takes readers on a journey through each of Lauren's fashion shows, from his debut in 1972 to his fall 2025 collection, offering an intimate and detailed look at his cinematic vision. Foley's expertise as a former fashion editor of WWD and W brings a critical eye to the analysis of each collection, providing a nuanced understanding of Lauren's impact on the industry.
What sets 'Catwalk' apart is its celebration of Lauren's cinematic approach to fashion. Foley highlights how Lauren's runway shows are not just about the clothes but also about creating a narrative, a story that unfolds through the clothes, the heroines, and the setting. This is evident in the diverse range of themes Lauren has explored, from the American West to collegiate prep, Hollywood glamour, and international adventure. Each collection is a chapter in a larger story, with Foley skillfully guiding readers through the evolution of Lauren's aesthetic and his ability to capture the essence of different eras and cultures.
One of the most fascinating aspects of the book is Lauren's consistent approach to design. Despite the passage of time and the ever-changing fashion landscape, Lauren's early clothes, as Foley notes, still feel relevant today. This consistency is a testament to his timeless vision and his ability to create designs that endure and improve with each wear. Lauren's inspiration comes from enduring values rather than fleeting trends, and this is what has kept his designs relevant and beloved over the years.
Foley also delves into the personal and family influences that have shaped Lauren's career. His family has been a constant source of inspiration, and many of his businesses were born out of these personal connections. For example, shopping with his wife, Ricky, inspired his entry into womenswear, while becoming a father led to the launch of his children's collections. Lauren's foray into the home space in 1983 was also a result of his and Ricky's experiences in acquiring multiple homes, showcasing his ability to translate personal experiences into successful business ventures.
The book also explores Lauren's impact on the retail world, with Foley detailing the evolution of his stores from freestanding locations to hospitality spaces like the Paris restaurant on Boulevard Saint Germain and the Polo Bar in New York City. Lauren's ability to control his visual narratives and create immersive experiences has been a key part of his success, as evidenced by the 1986 opening of his flagship on Madison Avenue in the Rhinelander Mansion.
However, Foley also addresses the controversies surrounding cultural appropriation in Lauren's work, as well as his philanthropic efforts and the eight-year-long preservation process of the Star-Spangled Banner. These aspects provide a more nuanced understanding of Lauren's impact on society and his commitment to preserving cultural heritage.
In conclusion, 'Ralph Lauren Catwalk' is a must-read for fashion enthusiasts and anyone interested in the history of American fashion. Foley's insightful commentary and detailed analysis make it a rich and engaging exploration of Lauren's life and work. The book not only celebrates Lauren's achievements but also provides a deeper understanding of the creative process behind his iconic designs, making it a valuable addition to any fashion library.
